20 Years of Aid by Trade Foundation – 20 Years of Value to Business, People and Nature

Entrepreneur Prof. Dr Michael Otto founded the Aid by Trade Foundation in 2005 with three primary aims: making a decisive and measurable contribution to the sustainable production of raw-materials, stabilizing the living conditions of producing communities, and protecting nature. What began with Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) in three African countries is now a global foundation that maintains four recognised sustainability standards for cotton and cashmere.

Value to Business, People and Nature

Convinced to transform cotton and textile production, AbTF began with its first efforts to introduce sustainable cotton into mainstream textile production in 2005 and launched Cotton made in Africa®. Since then, the Aid by Trade Foundation has been continuously expanding its operations. In 2006, the program was initiated with 100,000 small-scale farmers in three countries in Africa South of the Sahara. Over the years, AbTF has grown to become the largest standard for independently verified and sustainable cotton produced by small-scale farmers who stand in the forefront of AbTF’s engagement. Eventually, two other cotton standards were added: CmiA Organic and Regenerative Cotton Standard® (RCS). The launch of RCS represents AbTF’s first expansion of a cotton standard beyond Africa, to India. RCS is produced by farmers in Maharashtra who implement regenerative farming practices – a holistic and future-facing way to grow cotton. Now, in 2025, AbTF works with approximately 21 managing entities in the cotton cultivation areas, 65 retailers and brands purchasing the verified cotton, and more than 800,000 farmers in ten African countries as well as in India. Additionally, AbTF has started pioneering work with The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), established in 2019 as the first standard for sustainable cashmere from Inner Mongolia. Having quickly risen to become a global leader in verifying sustainable cashmere production, GCS is now in demand by more than 50 fashion brands and textile companies, including H&M, J.Crew, Zadig&Voltaire, and The White Company. In China’s Inner Mongolia, GCS works with around 5,500 herders on whose farms 2.4 million goats live.  Overall, more than 3,000 partners are now working with the foundation along the textile value chain from field to fashion, including some of the largest German and international trading companies and fashion houses in the textile sector. Each year, millions of textiles carry a label from the Aid by Trade Foundation based in Hamburg. By reinvesting the resulting income generated by activating market forces as part of a closed cycle, AbTF and partners makes a significant and measurable contribution to the sustainable transformation of the textile and fashion industry, to nature conservation, animal welfare, decent working conditions and stabilized living conditions of producers on-site, despite increasingly challenging external factors.

AbTF Launches New Biodiversity Fund

In 2025, AbTF’s commitment to preserving biodiversity and implementing innovative practices in sustainable cotton and cashmere production remains unwavering to accelerate nature restoration and socio-economic justice for cotton and cashmere farming communities. To take immediate action on top of its voluntary sustainability standards, the Aid by Trade Foundation officially launches its fund for the promotion of nature conservation and biodiversity protection, a future facing initiative to mark its 20-year anniversary. The foundation initially allocates EUR 500,000 to support projects and activities promoting biodiversity and nature conservation in the cotton or cashmere project regions of the Aid by Trade Foundation. Learn more here.

“Who, in 2005, would have thought that a global alliance of fashion brands and textile companies would now be demanding raw materials verified according to the standards of the Aid by Trade Foundation? I am thrilled that this is the case today, and I am convinced that the foundation will keep making a significant contribution to sustainable fashion and will lead the way for people and the environment through its new biodiversity fund.”

Prof. Dr Michael Otto Founder of the Aid by Trade Foundation

“With our sustainability standards for cotton and cashmere, AbTF is bundling the demand for sustainable raw materials pre-competitively and with increasing success. We are proud of our achievements and know that our journey is as relevant today as it was 20 years ago to find a harmonious balance between nature, people and business.”

Tina Stridde AbTF Managing Director

2006

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2007

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2008

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2009

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2010

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2005

Prof. Dr Michael Otto sets up the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) against the backdrop of the WTO conference in Cancún in 2003.

2007

The first CmiA product, a tour jacket for the musician Peter Maffay is launched.

2009

CmiA rapidly expands its market presence, collaborating with 23 retailers and brands as well as textile producers in 11 countries.

2011

To enhance the visibility of sustainable cotton and smallholders in public, AbTF initiates two impactful alliances: one with the Jacobs Foundation and Hanns R. Neumann Foundation, and another with representatives of Fairtrade Germany and the organic cotton sector.

2014

AbTF launches its CmiA Organic Standard.

2016

With its 360° campaign, OTTO, as a long-time CmiA partner, brings the topic of sustainability to the forefront. The centerpiece is an emotional TV spot that raises customer awareness about sustainable cotton from the Cotton made in Africa® initiative.

2018

Since 2018, brands and retailers can rely on AbTF’s tracking system called Hard Identity Preserved (HIP). It proves that verified cotton was physically used in the labeled product by tracing it from the cotton bale in production countries through the global textile chain to the final item.

2020

With The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS), AbTF expands its value-to-business approach to sustainable cashmere. GCS quickly becomes a leading global standard, working with over 50 brands and 5,500 herders in Inner Mongolia, where around 2.4 million goats are kept under improved animal welfare conditions.

2022

Cotton made in Africa® is officially recognized as an accredited raw material source by two relevant sustainability standards, the Green Button and Cradle to Cradle Certified®.

2023

AbTF starts new innovations with the Regenerative Cotton Standard® (RCS), marking its first activity for sustainably produced cotton in India, and the Innovations Club, reinforcing its commitment to continuously expand knowledge transfer and innovations between CmiA project countries.

2025

AbTF allocates €500,000 in its “AbTF Biodiversity Fund” in celebration of its 20th anniversary. The goal of the fund is to promote biodiversity and nature conservation.

2006

AbTF begins with Cotton made in Africa® (CmiA) pilot projects for 100,000 smallholder farmers in three African countries – Benin, Burkina Faso and Zambia.

2008

The successful launch of Cotton made in Africa® leads the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation and German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development to fund the program under the Competitive African Cotton Initiative (COMPACI).

2010

Launch of the “Aid by Trade Forum” to discuss the future of business, focusing on the concept of “Aid through Trade.” The forum offers a nuanced perspective on Africa, highlighting its immense potential while challenging stereotypes.

2012

Star photographer Albert Watson travels to Benin to meet CmiA cotton farmers. The large format photographs are showcased in the exhibition “ALBERT WATSON VISIONS FEAT. COTTON MADE IN AFRICA“ at the Deichtorhallen.

2013

The Aid by Trade Foundation wins the PR Bild Award of the year with one of the photos taken by Albert Watson. A second award follows in 2022.

2015

AbTF establishes the CmiA Community Cooperation Programme (CCCP) to support activities in the fields of education, health, and gender in CmiA cotton regions. It builds on successful cooperation projects started in 2009, going beyond sustainable cotton farming.

2017

AbTF launches the bathrobe as a campaign symbol for millions of cotton farmers. Highlight: the 2018 Bathrobe Challenge and Party in Berlin with partners, influencers, and celebrities.

2019

On the occasion of the collapse of the Rana Plaza textile factory the documentary “Fashion vs. Morality” on ARD (Germany’s public broadcasting network) follows the traces of textiles back to the cotton fields of Cotton made in Africa®. Further features on different channels such as Pro7, ARTE, and WDR follow highlighting CmiA’s impact and the farmers who grow cotton.

2021

The Aid by Trade Foundation releases its second scientific study on the environmental footprint of cotton verified under the Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) standard. The findings reveal that CmiA cotton outperforms many others in terms of water consumption and climate impact, thanks to its low greenhouse gas emissions and minimal water usage.

2024

Today, AbTF is a globally recognized organization with four sustainability standards for cotton and cashmere, protecting nature and supporting small-scale farmers and herders. Its global network comprises over 3,000 partners across the textile supply chain. Millions of textiles, from fashion items to workwear, home textiles and banknotes, rely on the verified raw materials.

For more information on the fund and our 20th anniversary, please visit our press portal.